Thursday, November 26, 2009

Moose Adventures, Part 5: In Closing.... Mules

All amazing things must come to an end, and so, too, must this particular series of offerings.  While I continue to ponder lessons learned, and intend to pass on many tidbits and tiny facts from my first big game hunt as I continue to explore, it is time to move our discussion onward.


In closing, thank you for listening, and I hope you have enjoyed what you heard.  I will leave you with images of perhaps the least anticipated sight of our trip, and one last tale:




These signs were nailed to trees on the far side of the Tanana, around a small home about a mile down the trail (see "Part 1" for a more detailed description of where we were and how we got there).   They belonged to a pair of brothers who run a business taking visitors on guided hunts.  The brothers own one cabin by the Tanana, and another approximately 40 miles upriver.  They take hunting parties up by ATV, with the gear on pack mules, and fly the meat out in a Super Cub owned by the family.  When not in use, the mules roam the lands near the lower cabin; the signs are a warning to hunters that mules are in the area and not to get too trigger happy.


Until the next one..... here's to hoping you make it to Alaska soon!

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Moose Adventures, Part 4: "Save the rifles, then the cameras, then yourselves"

Some people enjoy adventures; some people do not.  I unabashedly do, and one of the primary reasons is because adventures force me to learn new skills, new ways of coping in foreign situations, and test my personal capabilities at the same time.  While sometimes scary, I find the challenge of "not getting hurt" and "staying alive" to be fundamentally much more satisfying than my typical day, which tends to evoke stress of the "how many emails can you send out in an hour, while completing paperwork, not drinking too much coffee, and not hitting anyone in frustration" variety.  


What I enjoy about Alaskan adventures in particular is that, for me, the primary skill learned can often be boiled down to a singular memory that in turn becomes symbolic of the entire trip.  During the moose trip, the word "adventure" became synonymous with "ATV."


We've talked a bit about the terrain in past entries, but if you would like a better idea of the degree of difficulty and the stress we put on the four wheelers, watch the videos posted on Facebook (add me as "Jan Shultis Bowers") or on YouTube.  The four-wheelers were the only way to get people and gear where we needed it to be.  My driving experience prior to this trip consisted of slow jaunts around the flat hunting grounds of my family's ranch in the "hill country" of Texas to gather fire wood; this was another, uncomfortable planet.



Jason and I began the trip riding together so that I could leap off the back and take pictures at every opportunity.  I was thrilled with this arrangement, which offered a chance to hang out with my husband, limited my ability to harm others or an expensive machine, and allowed me take photos.  Jason, who is a highly capable driver and enjoys a challenging course, was also content.  Not so thrilling were the bruises on my palms, back, and legs from clinging to the machine, but those four-wheelers took us where we wanted to go without fail, and I remain grateful for their capabilities.



As the days wore on, the hours of daily driving over rocks, up hills, and through rivers began to show, and machines broke down.  From shift pins to flat tires, if something wasn't broken, it was probably frozen (read "Part 3" for more about the weather).  Two machines dumped in the river, including us when a steep embankment tipped us backward and into cold waters.  Laden with camera gear in a backpack on my back, I floated like a turtle downriver until Jason grabbed my jacket and hauled me out.  I stripped down to a sodden t-shirt, hat and gloves lost, to dry off our rifles and camera gear as best as we could.  As my father-in-law says, "save the rifles, then the camera gear, then yourselves."  While at first a funny statement, this is sound advice!    


Several other riders found themselves clinging to their machines and drifting downriver on various occasions when water that looked passable got a tad bit deep.  Luckily, no one was hurt, and each day we laughed, cracked open repair kits, and did the best we could.  On the last day, down to a few machines and a lot of riders who wanted one last crack at a moose, we doubled up and took four machines up the river with the twin purposes of hunting and cleaning the moose Jason took the night prior.  This meant that we would tow a Pak Rat up, and haul out an additional 500+ pounds of meat.  Due to the load on each machine, the most experienced drivers were assigned, and the rest of us charged with clinging to the back.

At least, that was the plan.  As evening began to fall, a member of our party suffered a stroke (cut to the bottom line: he was fine, received medical care the next day, and is now fully recovered).  This gentleman was one of our drivers.  Jason, one of our most capable, immediately left to transport the injured man all the way back to camp for an attempt at a medivac out (ultimately denied due to the snow that rolled in and made a flight in next to impossible).

Three challenges now lay before us:
1) A worried Jason had to safely transport an injured man on the back of his ATV without causing further harm.
2)  Four people and two machines were left at the kill site.  This meant that Jason's father had to haul out the meat and a passenger, and 
3)  left me turning to the fourth person and asking "well, okay..... you better hop on the back and hang on tight, and how do I turn this thing on?"


In my opinion, the true display of courage was the woman who hopped on the behind me without batting an eye! 


It took us three hours, but the group returned to base camp intact.  Jason returned to us after dropping off the injured man with those who remained at camp, enabling the overburdened ATV with the meat to be relieved at least of the weight of one body.  Onward we trekked, crossing one obstacle at a time, while I thanked the heavens above that I had strong arms and a strong back from powerlifting; patient teachers who only told me later that they panicked when I stopped making forward progress across the deepest river we crossed; and the type of Irish stubbornness that causes women to hike up their sleeves and figure that while we may or may not be able to do it, we stand as good a chance as anyone else, so might as well get to it already.


Or at least as soon as one figures out how to turn that darned thing on.....

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Moose Adventures, Part 3: Snow, Ice, and Wolves, Oh My!

"It'll be about 40 degrees," they said.
"Looks like it's going to be a sunny week!" they said.
"Perfect time of the year to get out and enjoy the fall colors," they said.
"They," of course, are weathermen (and weatherwomen, as it were).  "They," of course, need a good slap to the face. 

Less than twelve hours after we arrived at base camp, it started snowing.  While I was perfectly happy to feel snow on my face after months in the one-season wonder that is southern California, and I was toasty warm in my insulated Cabela's gear, snow does present certain difficulties when hunting in the middle of nowhere.  Challenges range from inconvenient (like ATV's that take minutes to heat, "can I pee now without freezing" trips into the woods, and cold tea), to troublesome (parts that snap in the freeze, clothes that get wet and won't dry, anyone who believes in both weathermen and the tooth fairy and lacks warm clothing), to life-threatening (our request for a medivac out after a man in our party had a stroke was denied because the snow socked in so low the planes could not safely navigate the mountains to get to us.  He is fine, but that is another conversation.)
What was more surprising than the weather was how absolutely happy it made me.  I glued my camera to my hand and dashed from one point to another, attempting to capture everything.  What we could see of the mountains looked so different in the gloom; the camp fire was even brighter; the campsite was even cozier than normal, a beacon of warmth and respite from rivers and wind.
I was not the only one flitting about camp.  I greeted one morning after a hard freeze (but no snow that night) by taking my usual walk-about-camp to see if there was anything around worth taking a picture of before we took off up the river bed for moose.  As I rounded back toward the tents, I came across the most remarkable sight - fresh wolf prints less than 100 feet from my tent!  It was clear where the animal had approached, sat down to watch, moved a bit closer, sat again, then departed.  There were a single set of prints, about 3/4 the size of my hand, and we estimated the animal weighed about 120-150 pounds.


Does life offer anything more humbling than mountains in the morning, snow, and the knowledge that something is always watching?


Friday, November 6, 2009

A brief departure to share great joy

A brief departure from the moose adventures, but you can't rush a tale worth telling (as the moose stories are), and I am bursting to share my thoughts.

I woke up today with a feeling I rarely feel outside of Alaska - a feeling of absolute, unadulterated curiosity about what the day holds.  It is not quite excitement, but it makes me feel alert, happy, and calm nonetheless.  I have felt this way in the mountains, when I start the day in meditation in the garden, and briefly after I was first exposed to shamanic healing and practiced cleansing dragon breaths.

What I have learned, reinforced today, is that when you cultivate this energy, acknowledging, engaging, and feeding it, the most marvelously random things happen.  Today the feeling hit on the drive to work.  I laughed, pondered how good the coffee was, and thought this could be a great start to the weekend.  Today, I received a business offer that made me grin from ear to ear (more later as details develop).  I spent time with a friend, transferring energy and talking about life, death, and everything in between, above, and around.  I came home and received a completely unexpected monetary gift in the mail.

What made today different than other days?  When I felt joy to be alive, manifest as curiosity about the day, I actively committed myself to maintaining that feeling throughout the day.  When I got tired, I took a break and got up from my desk, actually stopping to talk to the people I saw instead of rushing by with clipboards and folders in my arms.  I ate lunch with my computer off, enjoying each bite, instead of typing with one hand and shoveling food in with the hour (can't be late for that meeting or miss that deadline!).  I did not become stressed or overwhelmed, only to leave the office completely frazzled at the end of the day.  I felt an energy, worked to preserve, explore, and trust it, and good things came my way.  It has happened before, I pray it will happen again, and yet I remain completely humbled and awed when such things occur.

How to preserve this energy?  I don't rightly know, but I believe that sharing it is probably a good start.

Here's to hoping tomorrow feels that way for all of us.